Collection: Floor Soundproofing Materials

Yes, when you need to reduce footfall noise and other structural noise, you absolutely cannot skip soundproofing your floor. Particularly in condos, apartments, and other multi-families, a soundproof floor can reduce turnover rates and improve tenant satisfaction.

If you have access to both sides of the assembly, you'll want to weigh out the type of noise you're dealing with. Typically, in floor-ceiling assemblies, impact noise like footsteps and dragging furniture is the problem. If so, you have to choose which side you feel most comfortable doing construction on. If you're dealing with airborne noise like people talking and TV noise, soundproofing the ceiling is the most effective way to reduce that airborne noise.

Read our article to learn how to soundproof your ceiling for our expert take on the subject.

Rubber underlayment is specifically designed to go underneath your finished floor whereas rubber isolation mats, rolls, and pads are used to isolate on the top side of a finished floor to isolate equipment and machinery and to protect the floor.

The answer is generally "no". In order to stop impact noise, you need to have some form of isolation in the floor-ceiling assembly. If you just put new floors down or don't want to rip your floor out, you can work from the ceiling side of the assembly with the use ofRSIC-1® sound isolation clips.

Now, if you have a localized noise problem related to a specific appliance or a piece of equipment like a treadmill or even under a golf simulator mat, then you can target that specific location. Using Super W isolation pads or The Stomp Mat under loud equipment and appliances can drastically improve the amount of noise that is transferring to the room below.

Check out the data we collected from the golf mat soundproofing field test we ran using The Stomp Mat to reduce noise by an average of about 10 dB!

You’ll need adhesive if you want your rubber flooring to stay permanently in place. Adhesive is recommended for:

• Permanent installs where the floor won’t be moved later.
• High-traffic areas like gyms, studios, or hallways where movement is more likely.
• Uneven subfloors to prevent shifting.
• Thinner rubber flooring (under 5mm) that’s light enough to creep without glue.
• Spec'd into the job to meet certain building requirements.

If your space fits one of these situations, adhesive ensures a secure, long-lasting installation.

It really comes down to your space constraints and the IIC rating you’re aiming for. In general, thicker underlayments deliver better sound performance. The biggest exception is tile flooring. To prevent cracking, you need to use the 2mm thick rolls. If you need thicker underlayment under the tile, add a layer of plywood between the underlayment and the tile.

In most cases, no. Rubber flooring is already dense, heavy, and resilient, so it usually doesn’t require an underlayment. That said, there are situations where it makes sense: if you’re installing over a cold concrete slab, an underlayment can add comfort and act as a moisture barrier. For upstairs spaces, it can also improve soundproofing. But for most home gyms or basement installs, rubber isolation mats are sufficient on their own.